2000s Patek Philippe Neptune Moon Phase (Ref. 5085/1A) Box & Papers

'You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.’ — Patek Philippe started this now ubiquitous marketing campaign in 1966 and never looked back, though they already had an outstanding legacy since the watchmaker was founded in the year 1839. Patek built its reputation on several foundational pillars: tradition, innovation, and excellence, all of which are paramount in every timepiece they make, both old and new. 

The Neptune model was introduced in 1996, alongside the Aquanaut, in an effort by Patek Phillipe to revitalize their steel sports watch offerings, since the Nautilus failed to meet sales expectations, and is often referred to as the lesser-known brother to the Nautilus and Aquanaut. The Neptune was launched as a series of models with a few different case styles, dials, and movements, though the halo reference for the Neptune was undoubtedly the moon phase variant. However, the Neptune also failed to meet sales expectations and was discontinued in 2005. Years later this unique model has found a new audience among collectors favoring the avant-garde melding of sport and classical designs from Patek Philippe in the 1990s and early 2000s.

For some, the Neptune ref. 5085/1A may be an acquired taste, which is understandable. It's an impressively complicated moonphase calendar with power reserve and a display case back, employing the in house cal. 240/164, housed in a stainless steel 37mm case with crown guards and a screw-down crown resulting in a 30-meter depth rating. Tying these colliding worlds together is an integrated stainless steel "fish scales" bracelet. Though for those who get it, love it, and we at Craft + Tailored are happy to be in that camp.