1991 Rolex Explorer I (Ref. 14270) "Tiffany & Co." Dial

The Rolex Explorer 1 ref. 14270 was introduced by Rolex in 1989 as the successor to the ref. 1016. The Rolex Explorer 1 ref. 1016 was in production for 27 years and saw only minor updates to the dial and bracelet, the Ref. 1016 largely remained unchanged throughout its 27 years of production. The ref. 14270, however, was a massive technical update to the Explorer 1. The ref. 14270 received a more modern sapphire crystal, a new, faster-beating Rolex Cal. 1570, and then the Cal. 3000 movements. The updates also featured a more modern solid link bracelet with the later era bracelets receiving a smaller flip-lock clasp, and the most notable difference and update from a design visual perspective is a lacquered dial with applied white gold indices that were filled with tritium luminous material and then later with luminova. The Rolex Explorer ref. 14270 has quickly generated a cult-like following, especially the earlier examples that possess tritium-filled markers and hands.

The Rolex Explorer I references bridges the gap between a dress watch and a sports watch. Without the crown guards and rotating bezels commonly found on sports models offered by Rolex, the Explorer I has a cleaner, sleeker profile while incorporating recognizable sports model features into the dial. The highly visible block indices, numerals at the 3 o'clock, 6 o'clock, and 9 o'clock positions, and Submariner style triangle at the 12 o'clock position allow for readability under any conditions. The Submariner-style hands featured on the ref. 14270 adds to the unique feel and appearance. The Rolex Explorer blends the classic and timeless look of a 36mm Rolex Oyster style watch while offering a ruggedness and utilitarian feel that can be worn in the most formal and or casual settings.

“Tiffany & Co.” signed Rolex watches are the elusive and forever desirable variants of our favorite models offered by the horological house. Beginning in the late 1950s, Tiffany & Co. began printing their name on the dials of watches from various Swiss brands that were sold through their retail locations. Though they worked with a variety of brands in this era, the “Tiffany & Co.” co-branded Rolex are by far the most talked about, well-known, and collected amongst the lot, and for good reason. The relationship between Tiffany and Rolex carried on until the 1990s when Tiffany & Co. entered into an exclusive partnership with Patek Philippe. Interestingly, the Tiffany & Co. logos were printed by hand at the Tiffany Location in New York City, not by Rolex.