1940s Cartier Branded Movado 'Cal. M95' Chronograph 14K YG (Ref. 49020)

Movado may just be the perfect example of the joy of vintage watches in relation to their modern counterparts. In the mid-century, Movado competed with the likes of Rolex and Patek Philippe for design accolades and market share, establishing themselves as a premium manufacturer. One whose influence is still very much felt today.

The Movado M90 and M95 chronographs, for example, remain today as some of the most sought-after, collectible, and incredibly beautiful wristwatches to come out of the mid-century era of watch design. This revolutionary modular chronograph movement was designed by renowned watchmaker, Frederic Piguet in 1938 for the M90 caliber and the following year for the M95. The most notable difference between the two movements is the number of registers, with the M90 employing two registers while the M95 employs three.

Interestingly, the operation of the caliber M95 is inverted from conventional chronographs, with the bottom pusher starting and stopping the chronograph and the top pusher resetting it.

While Cartier has been synonymous with luxury jewelry and watches since the brand's inception in 1847, the Maison is best known for their own creations. However, much like Tiffany & Co. and other jewelers, Cartier also retailed other luxury watch brands such as JLC, Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Movado with the Cartier name signed directly on the dial. Much like Tiffany & Co., but even more so, these specially signed dials are extremely rare and sought after within the collector community, with only a handful surfacing every few years.

SPECS

Stock #		MOVCTRM95
Brand		Movado "Cartier"
Style		Chronograph "Cal. M95"
Model		49020
Serial		10XXXX
Size		Men's / Unisex
Material		14K Yellow Gold
Dial		Cream "Aged" W/ Breguet Numerals
Millimeters		31.5
Strap		2pc Leather Strap

CASE & BRACELET

The 14K yellow gold case is beautifully preserved for its age showing minimal evidence of being previously polished with only gentle signs of use present. The watch wears surprisingly larger than its measurements thanks to the impressively slim bezel that allows the dial to take up more visual real estate than typical chronographs of the era. The case retains its original flat pushers and unsigned crown. The snap-on case back features an engraving that reads "M de L". The Cartier inventory number is engraved on the back of the bottom right lugs. The movement features the notable "MXI" import designation for the United States, further validating the watch as 14K yellow gold was the chosen grade of precious metal in the USA in that era. The watch comes supplied on a 2pc leather strap.

DIAL & HANDS

The original, exceptionally well-preserved for its age and charming Cartier branded dial features Breguet numerals with two timing scales, an inner "snail shell" tachymeter in blue, and an outer mileage scale in red. The dial itself is in wonderful condition and exhibits honest but subtle elements of gentle wear and aging that add to the warm vintage aesthetic of the watch with no major or notable unsightly damage points. The solid yellow gold hour and minute hands are also in excellent condition as are the blued steel sub-register and chronograph hands, which add a welcomed pop of color.